Located in the heart of the Julian Alps national park is the highest summit of Slovenia – Triglav. Not only is it a national symbol but it’s widely believed that you are not truly Slovenian unless you climb to the peak at least once in your life. Triglav also boasts the biggest climbing face in the range.
If you consider yourself a climber, regardless of skill level, a climb on the famous Triglav North Face is a must. The face is a kilometre in height and three kilometres wide. It is by far the most important large wall in Slovenia, full of monuments representing of the history of alpine climbing in the Julian Alps. The face offers over a hundred routes, climbed over more than a century. Most of them are very long and rather difficult.
However, some of the routes are suitable for a novice and offer an easy while still fairly exposed experience. The most popular route for less experienced climbers is the Slovenian route. This is the first climbing route in the Triglav North Face. After climbing one of these routes, we strongly recommend staying in a mountain hut just below the summit of Triglav. From there you can conquer the summit the next day for a full two-day alpine experience.
It is best to have dry conditions to climb any of the north faces in the Julian Alps. The climbing season starts just after the snow melts at the end of winter which changes from season to season, but starting from the beginning of July, the conditions are the most favourable. This optimum period is from July until the end of September. In October, days are shorter and it can also be chilly on the shady faces.
Few routes can be climbed in the winter. The Slovenian route can be very good in snowy conditions and suitable for beginners. Best period for north face winter experience is in late winter or early spring mainly between the end of March and the beginning of May.